The old-fashioned way

If it weren't for the electrical lines in the background, it could have been a scene from another century.

A lone rider makes his way into town, leading a packhorse, followed by two dogs. As he dismounts, an old-timer steps up to greet him, asking him in Navajo where he's coming from, where he's going, and how the journey has been.

Which is exactly the experience Gene Shepherd wanted to have.

"Traditionally, everyone would ride their horses to the fair," explained the Rocky Ridge, Ariz., native. "I decided I could do it, even though I live in Chambers now."

The fair he wants to attend is the celebration formerly known as Pioneer Day, now called Eéhaniih Day (remembrance day), on Navajo Mountain, the most traditional of all the Navajo Nation fairs.

Shepherd, 48, started out Sunday, Aug. 1, and was in Forest Lake Tuesday, in time to sit down and have some stew at one of the stands serving voters in the primary election.

Shepherd himself doesn't vote.

"I have better things to do," he shrugged. "Whoever they elect, I just consider him my boss."

Shepherd works at the Padres Mesa Demonstration Ranch, a project of the Navajo-Hopi Relocation Project. It was originally designed to get Navajo relocatees off to a good start in their new homes in the New Lands, but it has since evolved to teach good ranching practices and horsemanship to any Navajo who want to take advantage of it.

Which makes this trip kind of a busman's holiday for this professional cowboy.

"I have lots of time to think, up there on my horse all day, but I end up noticing the ranches I ride through," Shepherd said. "I see the cow bones on the side of the road, where they've been hit by cars. I see open gates. I see overgrazing. Once in a while I see some really good areas too."

He enjoys talking to people along the way, and when they find out he works for the demonstration ranch, they ask his advice.

"I've already handed out all my pamphlets," he said.

Shepherd started out on a quarter horse but has since switched to his mustang, Lonesome Cowboy.

"He has more endurance," the rider said.

He's ridden through some pounding rainstorms on his way from Chambers to Burnside to Piñon to Forest Lake, staying dry in his long slicker.

His longest day was Monday, when he rode 15 hours and stayed with some relatives near Piñon. Now he's shortened his daily mileage so he won't arrive too soon - and so Lonesome Cowboy will be fresh enough to participate in one of the traditional races.

"Long as we're there, we might as well compete," Shepherd said.

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