Sacred Hogan satisfies rez cravings

(Times photo - Leigh T. Jimmie)

Brothers and co-owners of the Sacred Hogan are Sean Lewis, left, and Dwayne Lewis who serve Navajo cuisine for customers in the Phoenix metro area.

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If you live in the Valley and you're missing the delicacies of the Navajo Reservation, you can satisfy your taste buds by visiting the Sacred Hogan Restaurant (842 E. Indian School Road) in central Phoenix.

"This is the closest that we can be to home," said regular diner Melinda Nakaidinae, 35, who left the cool pines of Lukachukai, Ariz., for the Valley 13 years ago. "I was in here yesterday too. I hardly go home myself."

Recently Nakaidinae brought some of her relatives to sample the Navajo goodies offered here.

Sacred Hogan specializes in the usual treats like fry bread, mutton stew and roast lamb sandwiches but also offers blue corn mush, Navajo burgers on fry bread or a fresh-made tortilla, pork chops, potatoes and lamb, potatoes and ground beef, mutton rib plates, egg and bacon breakfast sandwiches, eggs and Spam sandwiches and, of course, Navajo tacos, small or large.

"I like coming here because (the owners) are personal with their customers," Nakaidinae offered. "They make it feel like a home away from home."

Sacred Hogan is the latest venture of Dwayne and Sean Lewis, a pair of Klagetoh Chapter natives who previously operated Arizona Native Frybread in Mesa, Ariz. They closed that restaurant in November after splitting with a third partner, and decided to relocate where there would be plenty of potential customers.

"There's more Native American clientele coming in here," said Dwayne Lewis, 42, who is Tábaahá (Edge Water Clan), born for Kétl'áhí (Gila River Pima). "We have the Phoenix Indian Medical Center here, the Veteran's Administration and other various services related to Native American people.

"The Indian gaming office is not too far from here as is the Heard Museum and the Inter Tribal Council of Arizona, all down in this area," he added.

Nestled in a small plaza with brown stucco buildings just east of Seventh Street, Sacred Hogan is also conveniently close to events like the Indian rodeo and Arizona State Fair, as well as basketball tournaments and powwows that draw many Natives to the Valley.

They didn't really need to advertise - word of mouth ensured that business was good from the moment they opened their doors.

"We've always been aware of the Frybread House's success in this area," Dwayne said, referring to another Native specialty restaurant in central Phoenix. "When they have an overflow, we can get that overflow to come over."

While you don't have to be Native to relish tribal foods, the Lewis brothers guess that 60 to 70 percent of their customers are Native American.

On a weekly basis the restaurant averages between 400 to 500 customers, with Fridays and Saturdays the busiest - especially when there's an event to draw out-of-town-visitors.

Sacred Hogan opened in January, and the brothers took a big risk opening a new restaurant just as the American economy was plunging into the worst period since the Great Depression.

But actually, they say, they were hit harder by last year's high gas prices.

"People would travel from central and north Phoenix to come out when we were based in Mesa," said Sean, 43. "Once gas prices went up, man, it hurt business."

In addition to serving food, the restaurant caters, provides carryout and occasionally has a food stand at powwows or other large events.

But the brothers offer food for the soul, too, via a "Native Culture Night" held on the second Friday of each month.

"We use this vacant space next door and we have a musician and various performers to come in and donate their time and performance," Sean said.

The goal is to promote Native cultural awareness, instill pride in the youth, and educate the youth and non-Natives about the tribes and cultures in the area.

"We're looking (for) performers that are willing to share their performance and teach their audience," Dwayne added.

"We've had Eli Secody, a contemporary Navajo performer, and we just had Frank Begay of Klagetoh Swingers this past weekend," he said. "He performed and talked about the song and dance."

Begay challenged the Lewis brothers to put on a traditional Navajo song and dance event to celebrate the restaurant's first anniversary, Sean said, "So that's something we're planning on doing in January."

Sacred Hogan is open Monday to Wednesday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., and is closed on Sundays.

Information: 602-277-5280 or 602-277-5423 (fax).